Magical Kyoto - July 2

First of all, please excuse the formatting spasms with regard to this blog.  When you're in Japan and you log into Blogspot, all the instructions are in Japanese, which leaves me resorting to trial and error most of the time.  "Let's see what happens when I click on THOSE kanji."  You get the picture.  I think I'm slowly figuring it how to write and post.  However, pictures are another story.  Unfortunately, it's just not going to happen until I can get some help.  But enough about that...

Then we hopped another bus for the opposite corner of town.  I wanted to wander through old Gion (the Geisha/entertainment quarter) and go to Kiyomizu Temple, neither of which I'd managed to take in on previous trips to Kyoto.  But first I had to get money.  It's supposed to be easy to get money with a credit card or bank card at an ATM in Japan.  Only problem is, you need to seek out very specific ATM's, which are not always handy.  I'll spare you the saga; suffice it to say it required a fair amount of run-around as well as some considerable coaxing and soothing to keep Julia functioning in the sauna of Kyoto in July.  Fortunately, we found kind assistance from several people who went out of their way to help us.

Can I just segue here to talk about Japanese customer service?  Can I just say that nothing on earth that I've experienced (and I've done a fair amount of traveling) compares?!  I remember being in Germany and having to chase and tackle store staff in order to get assistance.  Then they'd often act very put out at having been "caught" and having to trouble themselves with your concerns.  And then there were any number of countries in the Middle East, where shop keepers were willing to fall all over themselves to assist you in any way possible, but they were also going to use any means possible to milk you for everything they could.  Not that I didn't learn to play the game and even enjoy it.  I'm just sayin', you had to keep your wits about you.  And then there's the United States, where either you can't find a soul to help you or you have someone practically in your lap, acting like they're your best friend, usually with a high-pitched voice.  If I had a buck for every time a sales woman told me an ill-fitting outfit looked "greeeeat!" on me, I'd have a very nice little nest egg by now.  In my few days back in Japan, my experience has been that there is always someone watching and waiting to be of service.  But they hang back and wait, letting you browse without intrusion.  Then, the MOMENT you look up, bam! they're at your elbow, pleasantly cheerful, ready to be of service.  And often people - not just sales people - will go out of their way to be helpful.  A woman at a bank that day walked me out of the building and part way down the block, just so she could personally point out the exact building I needed to go to for my ATM.  Earlier, I asked some random guy a question who happened to be using an ATM next to mine and he ended up getting on a bank phone for me and obtaining a bunch of information to help me.  This has always been my typical experience in Japan, looking back.  I guess I'm just struck by this kindness all over again, as it's been so long since I've experienced it so consistently over and over even just in the course of a few days.

Back to the adventures!  We made a quick stop at Yasuka Shrine since we were right there anyway, then I dragged Julia through the streets of Gion for awhile - enough to get a feel for it - and then she wilted.  So rather than more tramping about in the heat and another muggy bus ride, we opted for a quick taxi ride to Kiyomizu Temple.  This has been a place of pilgrimage for over a thousand years.  The current structure was built in 1633, and is partially supported by massive wooden scaffolding-like supports.  These supports were created with a form of traditional carpentry that used no nails.  It boasts a large veranda with views overlooking the city.  We saw quite a few visitors in traditional Kimono and heard many languages spoken.  In fact, Julia has been struck by how many different languages we've heard in Kyoto.  We really enjoyed wandering about the temple grounds, drinking a little holy spring water as per tradition (Kiyomizu means "pure water"), and consuming shaved ice sitting on tatami mats under the trees.  Lovely!

Eventually, we wandered the quaint streets back down to the main road.  We browsed shops, munched snacks, took lots of pictures and just enjoyed not having any more agenda for the day.  We found a traditional little restaurant where we had a scrumtious dinner sitting on tatami, before heading back to our hotel and bed.
For those of you who haven't been to Japan, outside of most restaurants there are special windows in which food models, of all the different dishes served, are displayed.  It's kind of a bizarre thing, if you're not used to it, but it's also very handy, if your ability to read Japanese is limited.  Julia and I have had fun comparing the models to how the food actually looks when it arrives.  We've been taking pictures...

We woke up to a beautiful day.  The first place we found our way to was Kinkakuji, or the Golden Pavilion.  It was Julia's one request when she heard we'd be coming to Tokyo.  We hopped a city bus, made the short walk to the entrance gate, rounded the corner, and there it was!  It really is quite stunning.  Not subtle, but impressive.  The gold leaf gleamed against the green of the surrounding gardens in the morning light.  We walked around it and through the gardens awhile and took lots of pictures.  Julia was practically pinching herself, hardly able to believe we were really there.  On our way back to the bus stop we stopped at a stand selling sweets and bought ourselves some goodies.  I've never had these before and forgot to ask what they were called.  Maybe one of you can help me out... They're a little like mochi, but the dough is very tender and flavored (cinnamon, peach, mango, green tea, etc.) and folded into little flat triangles with an-ko (sweet bean paste) or other pastes in the center.  Apparently it's a local delicacy that is only made this time of year.  We unceremoniously scarfed the entire box within a matter of hours.  Outrageously good!